An ingenious concept makes Becco a prime Restaurant Row choice for time-constrained theatergoers. There are two pricing scenarios: one includes an all-you-can-eat selection of antipasti and three pastas served hot out of pans that waiters circulate around the dining room; the other adds a generous entrée. The selection changes daily but often includes gnocchi, fresh ravioli, and something in a cream sauce. The entrées include braised veal shank, rack of lamb, and various fish. Try to save room for bread pudding. Reservations essential. Subway: A, C, E to 42nd St.