It's nearly impossible to get into Frank Pellegrino's restaurant Rao's, an institution in Harlem, so try your luck with a reservation at Frank Jr.'s theater district edition. The bi-level restaurant is almost 10 times the size of Rao's, but the atmosphere is still homey and personal (if a little noisy). Many of the signature dishes that made beloved Rao's famous are served, among them a wonderful fusilli with sausage and cabbage in red sauce. Other exemplary dishes include a large veal chop smothered with wild mushrooms, fabled lemon chicken, and excellent grilled octopus. Reservations essential. Subway: C, E to 50th St.