After your first bite of the kitchen's ethereal homemade pasta or the tender suckling pig, you won't wonder why it's so hard to get reservations at Mario Batali's flagship restaurant (you'll need to make them before you arrive in New York). A five-course pasta tasting menu is the best way to get your fill of fresh noodles, such as the luscious lamb and fresh mint "love letters," or the rich beef-cheek ravioli. Adventuresome eaters will rejoice in the delicious lamb's tongue salad or the custardy brain ravioli, but more timid diners gravitate toward such simple dishes as succulent whole fish baked in salt. Service is friendly and helpful. Reservations essential. Subway: A, B, C, D, E, F, V to W. 4th St.