Trading the usual brass, beads, and dark tones for a sleek contemporary skylit dining room awash in soothing neutral colors and tantalizing fragrances, this modern Indian restaurant breaks from tradition. A multiregional menu contains not only such familiar dishes as tandoori chicken (prepared in a spotless glass-encased display kitchen) and a searing lamb vindaloo, but also such fusion-inspired options as rapturous venison chops in a spicy cranberry sauce and she-crab soup with saffron, ginger juice, and sweet spices. As a rule, the more intriguing a dish sounds, the better it is. Be sure to order a selection of breads: many versions of naan and roti are available, all particularly delicious. A tiny teahouse next door serves as a quaint café and take-out shop. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: N, R, 6 to 23rd St.