There's always a line and never a menu in this casual Greek fish restaurant. Start with the crisp fried smelts or the tender grilled octopus. Then choose whatever seafood is fresh from the market that morning, including such items as whole red snapper, swordfish, St. Peter's fish, and grilled shrimp. The traditional Greek appetizers are also good, particularly a garlicky tsatsiki (homemade yogurt dip). Wines are limited to Greek selections, and beer is available. Weather permitting, head for the charming garden. Reservations not accepted. Subway: N, W to Astoria-Ditmars Blvd.