The elegant dining room in this mellow restaurant features soft colors, wood floors, and gorgeous dried flowers. Chef Terrance Brennan's French food with Mediterranean accents is considered by many to be among the very best in Manhattan. Top dishes include the "macaroni and cheese" risotto with wild mushrooms, prosciutto, and vacherin cheese, and saddle of venison with chestnut spaetzle, cabbage confit, and huckleberry sauce. The wine list is extensive, including a good selection of wine by the glass. The celebrated cheese course is also outstanding. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: 1, 9 to 66th St.-Lincoln Center.