Pastry chef François Payard is the force behind this combination bistro and pastry shop. The room looks thoroughly traditional, until you notice such details as the croissant motifs in the mosaic tile floor. Appetizers on the bistro menu include an adventurous salad of crispy pig's feet, haricots verts, and frisée, and the entrée list has such interesting combinations as roasted quail with barley and sautéed foie gras with rhubarb, baby turnips, and black trumpet mushrooms. Payard's tarts, soufflés, and other French pastries are truly memorable. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 77th St.