This French bistro helped pioneer the Smith Street scene, but it has since been eclipsed by other restaurants in the area. However, the cheery dining room with brightly colored wallpaper and patterned Formica tables can still draw a crowd. Main courses tend toward the rich and earthy, including breast of duck with black currant sauce and grilled rib-eye steak. The wine list is particularly varied and well-priced. Subway: F to Carroll St.