A spin-off of Balthazar in SoHo, Pastis looks like it was shipped in tile by tile from Paris. At night throngs of whippet-thin cell-phone-slinging boys 'n' girls gather at the bar up front sipping Pernods and martinis. The menu includes passable French dishes such as steak frites, frisée aux lardons, leeks vinaigrette, salmon with crushed potatoes, lemons, and olives, and excellent crusty bread (imported from Balthazar). Try to get a seat in the rear dining area, away from the milling bodies. The restaurant also serves a full breakfast menu -- in summer, there's no better place for a hangover recovery than at an outdoor table. Reservations not accepted. Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.