It's hard to believe that this elegant, sedate brasserie was once the socialite hangout Mortimers -- gone are the party favors, the mini-hamburgers, and the staff's snooty attitude. Instead, you will discover a serious French restaurant featuring a menu that includes a long list of whimsical tartares and an array of house-smoked items. Both the traditional brasserie fare such as steak frites and more creative options like Thai bouillabaisse with ginger and lemongrass are skillfully executed. A reasonably priced wine list and professional service complete the dining experience. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 77th St.