New York trendsetters change hangouts faster than they can press speed-dial on their cell phones, but this spot has managed to maintain its quality and flair for 20 years and counting. Even with the buzz at Keith McNally's other hot spots, Balthazar and Pastis, the neo-art deco room is still packed nightly with revelers. One change reflects a change in the diners: children are welcome these days. And the pleasant service, relatively low prices, and well-chosen wine list are always in style. The bistro-menu highlights include frisée aux lardons' grilled hanger steak, and mussels with frites. Reservations essential. Subway: A, C to Chambers St.