Every chef Drew Nieporent selects for this, his first (and one suspects dearest) restaurant, excels. Currently Chris Gesualdi offers seasonal three- and five-course menus. If you're lucky, you'll be able to choose the sautéed frogs' legs with red wine fricasée of escargots and morel mushrooms to start, and follow it up with a truffle-crusted salmon or a saddle of venison with cipollini onions, chanterelles, and chestnuts. Pastel walls, plush mauve banquettes, engaging works of art, and the occasional line cook traversing the dining room to the inconvenient walk-in refrigerator set an unpretentious (some say dated) tone. The distinguished wine list emphasizes diminutive regional vineyards. Reservations essential. Subway: A, C to Chambers St.