Chef Anthony Bourdain has become famous not for his cooking, but for his best-selling books Kitchen Confidential and A Cook's Tour. But the Financial District outpost of his original restaurant remains strikingly unpretentious, like a French bistro-cum-butcher shop. Butcher paper on the tables, French posters, and a tin ceiling contribute to the atmosphere. A good bet is the côte de boeuf with béarnaise sauce, a massive rib steak for two served on a wooden board. Other prime choices include crispy duck-leg confit and frisée salad, and the restaurant's celebrated choucroute garni: sauerkraut slow-cooked in Pinot d'Alsace and garnished with smoked pork loin and breast, white veal sausage, frankfurter, and boiled potatoes. Subway: A, C, J, M, Z, 2, 3, 4, 5 to Broadway-Nassau St.