This is precisely the type of beloved restaurant that is regrettably becoming an endangered species: high-end French cuisine in a dignified setting. Owner Georges Briguet has presided over his kingdom for more than three decades, and is the definition of bonhomie; chef Joel Benjamin has pedigree and considerable flair. Near the entryway is a groaning buffet of luscious appetizers you won't want to miss, but the homemade smoked salmon with a corn muffin, sour cream, and salmon roe is similarly irresistible. One of the restaurant's signature dishes, turbot with a comté cheese crust in champagne sauce, is alone worth a visit -- or two. Don't forget to order a soufflé-Grand Marnier, chocolate, or armagnac -- at the beginning of your meal. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Subway: 6 to 51st St.