Owner Sirio Maccioni has fed the world's elite for more than 25 years. His restaurant's current incarnation in the landmark Villard House at the New York Palace Hotel continues the tradition. But the celebrities and moguls are now surrounded by Adam Tihany's controversial, futuristic, circus-chic interior. French native Pierre Schaedlin has injected contemporary overtones into the classic French menu (sautéed red snapper with a Napoleon of tapenade, fennel, roasted tomatoes, and broccoli rabe with tomato "diable" sauce, for example), and has included a few homages to Sirio's Italian roots. Over-the-top desserts come in Venetian-glass goblets and sugar domes. The wine list spans the spectrum of the world's varietals. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Subway: E, V to 5th Ave.-53rd St.