This is such a quintessential Manhattan French restaurant that it almost feels like a retro theme restaurant. The menu presents a $82 prix fixe of three courses (with several tempting supplements that fatten your bill). Possible choices include escargot with cauliflower beignets to start, followed by duck breast with foie gras figs, or warm lobster with salsify foam and black trumpet mushrooms. This isn't just about having memorable food -- it's about having a wonderful experience. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Subway: E, V to 5th Ave.-53rd St.