After a million-dollar face-lift, this gorgeous town-house restaurant feels roomier even when it's packed, as it usually is. It was the flagship restaurant in the vast empire of chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten (Jean-Georges, Vong, The Mercer Kitchen), and the food reflects his method of combining classic cooking techniques with infused oils, juices, and reductions. Foie gras brûlée on a soft disc of brioche is even better than it sounds, and roasted lobster, served in manageable in-the-shell portions, achieves the deepest flavor imaginable. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 68th St./Hunter College.