In Maryann Terillo, Jarnac's has one of the most talented and multi-faceted bistro chefs in town, not to mention a corner spot with wraparound windows in a lovely part of the West Village. Jarnac's market-driven menu usually includes luscious duck and pork rillettes, a sublime rib-eye steak Diane with a creamy cognac sauce, and rabbit with balsamic vinegar and caramelized onions with fresh pappardelle pasta. Terillo's cassoulet of Great Northern beans with pork, duck confit, and pork sausage is perfection: supple, smooth, and rich without being too oily or -- a more frequent problem -- too salty. Desserts are all sublime, and the wine list is carefully selected. Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.