Chef-owner Cyril Renaud, who's danced behind the stoves at such high falutin restaurants as La Caravelle and Bouley, has settled down in his own restaurant. The results of his personal endeavor are nothing short of excellent. He's brought his watercolors (which adorn the walls and the menus), his thirst for creativity, and his beloved salt from Brittany, which gives the restaurant its name. The prix-fixe menu is limited but perfectly tuned to the season and the scale of the dining room. A lobster salad is dressed with tangy lemongrass vinaigrette; crisp poussin (baby chicken) is bathed in a rich foie gras sauce. The professionalism of the service is commendable. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: R, W, 6 to 23rd St.