This sumptuously appointed space in the Carlyle Hotel is as dignified as the international crowd that loves to come here. Service is attentive and unfussy. Chef Jean-Louis Dumonet has designed a classic French menu with more than a few modern touches. He opens with a warm brandade and pureed potato spread for buttered roasted baguette slices. A signature appetizer, sweetbreads with artichokes sautéed with cumin, is a most convincing dish. The small Dover sole served with meunière or almondine sauce ranks with the best anywhere. Don't miss the Grand Marnier soufflé. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 77th St.