In this grand space inside the historic Mayfair Hotel, celebrity chef Daniel Boulud has created one of the most memorable dining experiences available in Manhattan today. The lengthy prix-fixe-only menu is predominantly French, with such modern classics as roasted venison loin with a honey-juniper glaze and kabocha squash. Equally impressive is the professional service and primarily French wine list. Don't forget the decadent desserts and overflowing cheese trolley. For a more casual evening, you can reserve a table in the lounge area, where entrées range from $36 to $39. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: 6 to 68th St.-Hunter College.