Soft peach walls, luxuriously spaced tables, towering floral arrangements, and stylish servers set the stage for what is certainly the most understated of New York's fancy French restaurants. Unassuming service complements chef David Waltuck's simple creations. The delicious signature grilled seafood sausage will always be available, but the bulk of the prix-fixe menu is dictated by the season. (Hope for the wild striped bass with bouillabaisse sauce and olive oil mashed potatoes when you go.) Roger Dagorn, the restaurant's exceptional sommelier, can help find value in the discriminating, well-chosen wine list. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: 1, 9 to Franklin St.