David Bouley has replaced Bouley Bakery with what can only be described as a throwback to his original formal French restaurant on Duane Street. He's reinstalled the 18th-century wooden door from the old location and even arranged apples in the vestibule to perfume the air the way he did before. Whatever you think about Bouley's media persona, there's no question the man can cook. His contemporary French fare remains precise and pristine, with occasional Asian accents of ginger and soy. Unfortunately, there's another holdover from the original: snobbish service that ranges from perfunctory to rude. Reservations essential. Subway: A, C to Chambers St.