When the owners of Blue Ribbon and Blue Ribbon Sushi renovated this space, they uncovered a 100-year-old coal-burning oven made from Italian tile and let it dictate the destiny of their restaurant. The bakery-restaurant has an eclectic menu featuring substantial sandwiches on homemade bread (from the oven, of course) and entrées that include trout and Cornish game hen. A whole section of the menu presents small plates of charcuterie, pâté, aged cheeses, and tapas-style dishes. The basement dining room (which has more atmosphere) is dark and intimate; upstairs is a Parisian-style café. Subway: 1, 9 to Houston St.