You're no longer guaranteed to sit next to a celebrity at Keith McNally's grand brasserie (younger sister Pastis has more star power), but it's still difficult to get an 8 PM reservation. The raw bar may be the best in town, with an outstanding selection of impossibly fresh crustaceans and bivalves. Nightly specials are French dishes that are as classic as the painstakingly accurate reproduction of a Parisian eatery. Steak tartare, steak frites, duck shepherd's pie -- it's all good. Breakfast is a civilized affair, with croissants and pains au chocolat coming from the restaurant's own bakery (they're also on sale at the tiny adjacent shop). Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to Spring St.; R, W to Prince St.