This isn't so much a French brasserie as it is a shrine to cheese, the favorite food of chef-owner Terrence Brennan (Picholine) and master cheese man Max McCalman. You can spot it aging to perfection in the back corner of the dining room, in a temperature-controlled "cave." You can order it in myriad forms from the menu: fondue, gougères, onion soup, or just piece after piece from the ever-changing, 200-plus cheese list. The other contemporary brasserie fare -- grilled lamb steak, chicken under a brick -- can be disappointing in comparison. But that's not the reason you came -- c'est cheese. Subway: 6 to 33rd St.