Under the 59th Street Bridge lies this incredible space that flaunts the pristine tile work of Raphael Guastavino. New Yorkers remember when this was nothing but a deserted tunnel. It took Terence Conran and his penchant for soaring, out-of-the-way spaces in his native London, to envision this site as a restaurant. You need a dining room this ample to showcase expansive Brasserie cuisine. Start with a selection of oysters and a spicy crab cake with a chipotle aioli, then tuck into braised pork shoulder with wild mushrooms and curry emulsion. Finish with lusty bread pudding studded with plumped raisins. Subway: N, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 59th St.-Lexington Ave.