Everything and nothing has changed at Katz's since it first opened in 1888, when the neighborhood was dominated by Jewish immigrants. The rows of Formica tables, the long self-service counter, and such signs as "send a salami to your boy in the army" are all completely authentic. What's different are the area's demographics, but the locals still flock here for succulent hand-carved corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, soul-warming soups, juicy hot dogs, crisp half-sour pickles, and a little old-school attitude thrown in for good measure. Subway: F, V to 2nd Ave.