Although not what it once was, this no-nonsense deli is still a favorite with out-of-towners. The portions are so huge you feel like a child in a surreal culinary fairy tale. Two giant matzo balls come in a bowl of soup, the knishes hang off the edge of the plates, and some combination sandwiches are so tall they have to be held together with bamboo skewers, not toothpicks. Don't miss the cheesecake, to our palates the best (and, of course, biggest) in the city. You pay for that excessive amount of food, but you can take home what you don't eat. Jacket required. Subway: B, D, C, E to 7th Ave.; N, R, Q, W to 57th St.