After a massive transformation inside and to the edifice of the historic Alwyn Court Building, Petrossian now closely resembles a haute Parisian restaurant. Chef Michael Lipp considerably revamped the menu as well; the luxurious caviars and silky smoked salmon sit alongside such newcomers as grilled giant octopus tentacles with sweet Italian sausage, bell peppers, and frisée. A sumptuous signature dish is pan-roasted sturgeon with fava beans and caviar beurre blanc. For dessert, try a two-chocolate terrine is gilded with coconut sorbet and crème anglaise. The café next door serves a selection of creative treats-plus caviar, of course. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: F, N, R, Q, W to 57th St.