Howard Chandler Christy's murals of naked nymphs at play grace the walls of this thoroughly romantic restaurant, which first opened in 1917. Although the haute French food may no longer be among the best in New York, the menu still always has some stunners, such as pan-roasted squab with chanterelle mushrooms and garlic flan over a potato cake. Desserts like hot fudge napoleon or perfect apple strudel are classic and appealing. The prix-fixe dinner is $45 (no substitutions allowed). Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: 1, 9 to 66th St.-Lincoln Center.