Hailed as a comeback kid, Jonathan Waxman, who in the 1980s brought California cuisine to New York via his hit restaurant Jams, is back on top with the sleek Washington Park. In Waxman's kitchen, the marriage of extreme seasonality and a classic foundation begets food of amazing lightness. Even a rich dish of seared foie gras is sauced with roasted quince and huckleberries, rather than anything too cloying. Wild striped bass achieves delightful complexity thanks to escarole, cranberry beans, green olives, and a lightly stinging gremolata (a relish of lemon zest, garlic, and minced parsley). Although the menu is anything but budget, the staff doesn't put on airs. Knowledgeable sommelier Sean Toussaint (one of four) offers earnest guidance whether you can drop $40 or $400 on a bottle. Reservations essential. Subway: L, N, Q, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St./Union Sq.