What do you do when you own more wine than you can drink? Veritas's wine-collecting owners decided to open a restaurant. The wine list originally included more than 1,300 producers, and although much of the initial inventory has been drunk, the list remains exemplary. Chef Scott Bryan's prix-fixe contemporary menu runs from such rich, earthy dishes as braised short ribs with parsnip puree to seared diver scallops with minted couscous and spicy Thai red curry nage. The dining room is distinguished by clean, natural lines, with one wall made of Italian tile and another displaying a collection of hand-blown vases. Reservations essential. Subway: R, W, 6 to 23rd St.