In a neighborhood of serious restaurants, celebrity chef Rocco DiSpirito's dining room stands out as a favorite among serious foodies. And unlike many celebrity chefs, DiSpirito visits his flagship restaurant. Every meal is an education in exotic ingredients, unusual flavor combinations, elegant presentations, and precise technique. Consider raw bay scallops with fresh sea urchin and mustard oil, which combines the taste of the ocean with the temperature of a hot summer's day, or the entrée of sea bass with squash pudding and saffron sauce. Rarely does anything on his seasonal prix-fixe menus disappoint. An unusual wine list, heavy on German labels, has something to teach you, too. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to 23rd St.