Anchored by the bar from the old Maxwell's Plum, this cavernous brick-wall restaurant displays art by Robert De Niro Sr., whose movie-actor son is one of restaurateur Drew Nieporent's partners. Chef Stephen Lewandowski oversees the kitchen, but his contemporary American food doesn't seem quite as important to the nightly crowd of diners as does the prospect of sighting somebody famous -- a regular occurrence. Still, you can eat well if you stick to the simplest dishes, such as braised short ribs or crisp baby chicken. Reservations essential. Subway: 1, 9 to Franklin St.