A meal here is not about the erratic food or service: it's about eating in Central Park with out-of-towners. New Yorkers grouse about the place, then can't wait to bring visitors here. This visual fantasy is a maze of dining rooms, each with a different theme: the Chestnut Room, the Crystal Room, and the garden area, which is under a beautiful canopy of lighted trees. The simplest dishes on the menu are normally the best bet, including wonderful prime rib and luscious crab cakes. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: 1, 9 to 66th St.-Lincoln Center.