Ignoring any sense of proportion, this eight-table spot on East 1st Street's restaurant row fits more than 300 different bottles on its American-only wine list. There's an ever-changing list of about 10 wines by the glass, and the menu depends on the season. Owners Collin and Renée Alevras want you to have a full tasting experience, so the menu items such as roast suckling pig, smoked trout with quail eggs and spiced rolled bacon, or daikon radish and pomelo salad come in small ("tastes") and large ("shares") portions. Collin must be a magician: you won't believe his food was cooked on a four-burner stove in the basement. Reservations essential. Subway: F, V to 2nd Ave.