Chef-owner Peter Hoffman serves an eclectic mix of dishes inspired by the Mediterranean in this cozy restaurant on a quiet cobblestone corner. A bronze wire-mesh ceiling, arched wood accents, and blazing fireplace lend the downstairs space a rural feel, the perfect setting for such down-to-earth dishes as braised lamb shank with lentils and crispy artichokes, and salt-crust baked cod with shell bean stew. Upstairs, the original tin ceiling, artwork, and open hearth are the backdrop for an expensive nightly prix-fixe menu, which includes a special grilled dish (cooked in the dining-room hearth). The wine list emphasizes small producers. Reservations essential. Subway: R, W to Prince St.; 6 to Spring St.; F, V to Broadway-Lafayette St.