Compact Pfiff, with its red-vinyl banquettes, custom light fixtures (made by one of the partners who is a sculptor), and funky tunes, is one of those rare restaurants in which one could eat every night. The affordable menu reads familiar, but chef Matteo Riccardella gives everything an unexpected, delicious twist. Crème fraîche spiked with cinnamon and nutmeg adds kick to butternut squash soup, and nicely textured peanut-crusted ahi steak comes with an Asian accent of spicy Napa cabbage. Pfiff means "whistle" in German, and this is one place you won't blow off. Subway: N, R, Q, W to Canal St.