With its travertine floor and working fireplace, this romantic, understated restaurant is tucked into a small town house. Co-owner Joseph Scalice supervises the polished service and the expert wine list that complement the cuisine of partner-chef Wayne Nish, master of classical French technique with a strong Asian influence. The table d'hôte prix-fixe menu is organized into tasting categories. Select any number of courses, then choose from a long list of seasonal dishes, such as Icelandic cod with green papaya and jicama salad, and luxury plates, such as duck foie gras with sweet Indian spices and kabocha squash chutney. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: N, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 59th St.-Lexington Ave.