Rick Laakkonen's elegant cooking is almost lost in this oddly shaped, cramped dining room in the lobby of the Bryant Park Hotel. The signature appetizer is a "tidal pool" of oysters and sea urchin in a warm broth, and the stuffed duck neck is great. The prix-fixe menu changes seasonally, but stand-out dishes include rabbit with dandelion and sheep's milk ricotta cannelloni, and roasted lamb with curried couscous. Reservations essential. Subway: B, D, F, V to 42nd St.