A culinary landmark, Gotham Bar & Grill is every bit as thrilling as it was when it opened in 1985. Celebrated chef Alfred Portale, who made the blueprint for architectural food, builds on a foundation of simple, clean flavors. On weekends, a steady stream of limos deposits people who come to gorge on transcendent dishes: no rack of lamb is more tender, no scallop sweeter. Portale (he's actually in the kitchen most weeknights) wrings maximum taste from the best the earth has to offer. A stellar 20,000-bottle cellar provides the perfect accompaniments -- at a price. If you plan on splurging on the food of an American master, do it here. On the other hand, a perfectly splendid three-course $25 prix-fixe lunch is served from noon to 2:30 weekdays. Reservations essential. Subway: L, N, Q, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St./Union Sq.