The food is the main focus at this small restaurant, as evidenced by the open kitchen and shelves filled with cookbooks. The menu changes daily, but dishes lean toward the traditional, with some modern combinations to liven things up. Good examples are the crispy boneless chicken with seedless red grapes and saffron Italian couscous, and the charcoal-grilled swordfish with lemon mashed potatoes and compote of tomatoes, onions, and peppers. The same dinner menu served at Etats-Unis is also available across the street at The Bar@Etats-Unis. Subway: 6 to 77th St. Other location: Bar@Etats-Unis, 247 E. 81st St., PHONE: 212/396-9928;