Like Tabla, this Danny Meyer restaurant occupies the lobby of the landmark Metropolitan Life Building and has views of Madison Square Park. The design incorporates the original art deco fixtures, but the place feels like a modern train station -- in a good way. Chef Kerry Heffernan's seasonal menu always includes a delicious braised beef dish (the short ribs are superb), plus skate, squab, lobster, and rarities such as pig's feet, each prepared in his simple, elegant French manner. The bar is beautiful. Reservations essential. Subway: R, W, 6 to 23rd St.