With an up-to-the-minute decor, a quicksilver staff, and Katy Sparks, one of the best chefs on the Upper West Side, Compass will guide you in the right gustatory direction. Start with herb salad with rabbit confit, bacon lardons, poached egg, and chervil oil. Grilled Alaskan King Salmon is plated with spinach puree, melted leeks, and a Pinot Noir reduction. Bulbous, juicy guinea hen is perfectly roasted and plated with creamy stone-ground grits. Marc Aumont's fanciful desserts are all about textures and contrasts, as in hot chocolate soufflé with vanilla-maple ice cream, roasted peanuts, and chocolate sorbet. Subway: 1, 9 to 72nd St.