If you want inexpensive Cantonese food without pretensions, head to Chinatown; but if you prefer to be pampered and don't mind spending a lot of money, this is the place. The dramatically lighted dining room is accented by images of white dragons and monkeys. The cuisine is classic Chinese. Giant prawns with black bean sauce make a good starter, and rack of lamb Szechuan style is a popular entrée. The adjacent Shun Lee Cafe is less expensive and serves some of the best dim sum around. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: 1, 9 to 66th St.-Lincoln Center.