This no-frills Chinese chain is a blessing for locals and Lincoln Center patrons in search of a quick budget meal. The best dishes are the noodle soups (available with a number of ingredients including dumplings, vegetables, and meat) and the dim sum prepared by speedy chefs with nimble maneuverings that you can watch while you wait for a table. The many other standard dishes include shrimp with lobster sauce and sesame chicken. The portions are generous, but don't expect any culinary revelations. Reservations not accepted. Subway: 1, 9 to 66th St.-Lincoln Center. Other locations: 2315 Broadway, at W. 86th St., PHONE: 212/362-3111; Subway: 1, 9 to 66th St.-Lincoln Center. 2957 Broadway, at W. 116th St., Morningside Heights, PHONE: 212/932-3300; Subway: 1, 9 to 116th St.