This regional Chinese restaurant serves a vast menu of specialties you won't find anywhere else. The emphasis is on fiery Sichuan (Szechuan) cooking, but Cantonese, Hunan, Shanghai, and even American Chinese food are represented (a handy treatise and guide on Chinese food comes with the menu). Spicy dan dan noodles, shredded potatoes in vinegar sauce, crab soup dumplings, minced pork with cellophane noodles or fermented green beans, and sautéed loofah are among the hauntingly delicious dishes. Subway: C, E to 50th St.