Although the soups and noodles are unbeatable at this no-frills restaurant, what you should order are the window decorations -- the hanging lacquered ducks, roasted pork, and crunchy baby pig. All three are superb, especially if you ask for the pungent garlic-and-ginger sauce on the side. Seasonal specialties such as duck with flowering chives and salt-baked soft-shell crabs are excellent. So is the congee, available with any number of garnishes. Solo diners may end up at a communal table. Reservations essential. Subway: 6, N, R, Q, W to Canal St.