This formal riverside restaurant provides its own free shuttle service from Manhattan. The breathtaking view of midtown alone is worth the trip, but the international wine list and upscale prix-fixe menu choice are sublime. You can start off with a nice selection of East and West Coast oysters, or opt for black truffle dumplings in a tarragon broth. Entrées include butter-roasted halibut with artichoke, fennel, and fingerling potatoes, and roasted five-spice suckling pig with root vegetable casserole. This is literally a transporting experience. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: E, V to 23rd St.-Ely Ave.